Bicycle Pedal Standards: Threads, Clipless Systems & Cleat Compatibility
Pedals connect your feet to the bike, threading into the crank arms and — on clipless systems — locking onto cleats bolted to your shoes. Almost every adult bike uses the same 9/16" x 20 tpi spindle thread, so swapping pedals is easy; the real compatibility puzzle is matching pedals, cleats, and shoe bolt patterns. This guide covers spindle threads, platform vs clipless designs, and every major cleat system past and present.
Why these standards exist
Pedal threads are one of cycling's great success stories: nearly every adult bike made in the last several decades uses a 9/16" x 20 tpi (threads per inch) spindle, so any modern pedal fits any modern crank. The exceptions are older or entry-level bikes with one-piece cranks (1/2" thread, common on BMX and kids' bikes) and vintage French bicycles (14 mm thread). One quirk trips up everyone at least once: the left pedal is reverse-threaded — it tightens counterclockwise — to stop it unscrewing itself as you ride.
Shoe-to-pedal standards are messier. Clipless pedals (a confusing name — they replaced toe clips, and you actually clip in) hold a cleat bolted to your shoe sole. Shoes come with 2-bolt, 3-bolt, or 4-bolt mounting patterns, and while a 2-bolt shoe accepts cleats from several brands, the cleats themselves only work with their own brand's pedals. Knowing your cleat system, its float (how much your foot can pivot before releasing), and your shoe's bolt pattern is what determines whether a new set of pedals will work for you.
Modern standards
What you’ll find on bikes from roughly 2018 onward. All the major systems (SPD, SPD-SL, Keo, Crank Brothers, Time, Speedplay) are current; the 9/16" thread has been universal for decades. Look Delta survives mainly on spin bikes.
9/16" x 20 tpi pedal thread
Late 1800s–presentAlso called: Standard pedal thread, ISO pedal thread, 9/16 inch
9/16" (~14.3 mm) diameter, 20 threads per inch; left pedal reverse (left-hand) threaded
The near-universal spindle thread on adult bikes with three-piece cranks — road, mountain, gravel, commuter, and e-bikes alike. The right pedal has a normal right-hand thread; the left pedal is reverse-threaded, so it tightens counterclockwise and loosens clockwise. Pedals are stamped L and R and are not interchangeable side to side.
Why it exists: The left-hand thread on the left pedal solves a real historical problem: left pedals kept unscrewing themselves. A rotating spindle inside a slightly larger hole 'walks' in the opposite direction to its rotation (a physics effect called precession), so a normal thread on the left side would slowly back out under pedaling loads.
Typically found on: Virtually all adult bikes with two- or three-piece cranks, from any era
1/2" x 20 tpi pedal thread
Early 1900s–present (now mostly BMX and kids' bikes)Also called: One-piece crank thread, BMX pedal thread, 1/2 inch
1/2" (12.7 mm) diameter, 20 threads per inch; left pedal reverse-threaded
The smaller pedal thread used on one-piece ('Ashtabula') cranks, where the crank arms and spindle are a single forged steel piece. A 1/2" pedal will not thread into a 9/16" crank and vice versa — the difference is about 1.6 mm of diameter, enough to feel obviously wrong.
Why it exists: One-piece cranks are cheap and rugged, so they dominated American cruisers, department-store bikes, BMX, and children's bikes. The thinner crank arm cross-section suits a smaller pedal thread. Thread adapters (1/2" to 9/16") exist for fitting modern pedals to these cranks.
Typically found on: BMX, kids' bikes, older cruisers and department-store bikes with one-piece cranks
Platform (flat) pedals
1860s–presentAlso called: Flat pedals, Flats
Typical platform ~90–115 mm long x 90–120 mm wide; body thickness ~11–18 mm; replaceable traction pins on MTB versions
A flat surface for any regular shoe, with no attachment mechanism. Modern mountain-bike flats are thin aluminum or composite platforms with threaded metal pins for grip; commuter and kids' versions use molded plastic or rubber blocks. Toe clips and straps — small cages bolted to the front of a platform pedal — were the standard foot-retention method before clipless arrived, and survive on some touring and track bikes.
Why it exists: Simplicity and freedom: no special shoes, instant foot removal, and easy repositioning. Modern downhill and trail riding drove the development of thin, large, pinned platforms paired with sticky-rubber flat-pedal shoes.
Typically found on: Commuter, kids', BMX, e-bikes, and mountain bikes (downhill/trail riders often prefer flats)
Shimano SPD
1990–presentAlso called: SPD, Shimano Pedaling Dynamics, 2-bolt Shimano
2-bolt cleat, bolts 14 mm apart side-to-side in fore-aft slots; small stamped-steel cleat (~37 x 20 mm); cleat bolt torque 5–6 Nm
The dominant off-road clipless system since 1990. A small metal cleat bolts into a recessed channel in the shoe sole with two M5 screws, so you can walk normally. The pedal's spring-loaded jaws grab the cleat; a screw adjusts release tension. Two cleat types exist: SH51 (black, releases only by twisting the heel outward) and SH56 (silver, 'multi-release', lets go at multiple angles for beginners).
Why it exists: Shimano designed SPD for mountain biking, where riders need to clip in and out constantly and walk in mud. The recessed 2-bolt cleat made clipless practical off-road, and its walkability later made it the default for commuting, touring, gravel, and spin classes.
Typically found on: Mountain, gravel, commuter, touring, and e-bikes; the most common clipless system overall
Shimano SPD-SL
2003–presentAlso called: SPD-SL, Shimano road
3-bolt cleat (standard road 3-hole pattern), large plastic cleat; float by color: yellow SM-SH11 = 6°, blue SM-SH12 = 2°, red SM-SH10 = 0°; cleat bolt torque 5–6 Nm; stack ~14.6–16.5 mm
Shimano's road-racing system, introduced in 2003. A wide plastic cleat bolts to a 3-bolt road shoe and clips into a single-sided pedal with an adjustable-tension rear spring. The big cleat spreads pedaling load across the sole but protrudes, so walking is awkward. Cleat color sets float: yellow (6°) is supplied with most pedals, blue (2°) pivots at the front-center, red (0°) is fixed.
Why it exists: Road racers wanted a larger, stiffer shoe-to-pedal interface and lower weight than SPD offers. SPD-SL adopted the 3-bolt hole pattern that Look established, making it compatible with nearly all road shoes — though its cleats remain incompatible with Look pedals.
Typically found on: Road bikes; standard choice for road riders on Shimano groupsets
Look Keo
2004–presentAlso called: Kéo, Look Kéo
3-bolt cleat; float by color: black = 0°, grey = 4.5°, red = 9°; stack ~14.8–17.8 mm depending on model
Look's current road system, launched in 2004 as a smaller, lighter successor to the original Delta pedal. The plastic cleat mounts to any 3-bolt road shoe. Keo pedals come with either a conventional adjustable steel spring or, on Keo Blade models, a carbon leaf spring with fixed tension set by swappable blades. Keo cleats pivot around the toe, which feels different from Shimano's center-pivot float.
Why it exists: Look invented the modern clipless pedal (1984) by adapting its ski-binding technology, and defined the 3-bolt shoe interface the whole road industry uses. Keo shrank the cleat and pedal for weight and cornering clearance while keeping the 3-bolt mount.
Typically found on: Road bikes; second most common road system after SPD-SL
Crank Brothers (Eggbeater system)
2001–presentAlso called: Eggbeater, Crankbrothers, Candy/Mallet cleats
2-bolt cleat (SPD-pattern shoe holes); float 0° or 6° by cleat choice; release angle 10° (easy) or 15° (standard); brass cleat material
A minimalist open design of four spring-steel wings around a spindle — the 'eggbeater' — that sheds mud better than almost anything and offers four-sided entry. The same mechanism appears with platforms around it (Candy, Mallet, Double Shot). Cleats fit any 2-bolt shoe but only work in Crank Brothers pedals. There is no tension screw; retention feel is fixed, and float/release angle are chosen by which cleat you buy and which shoe it goes on.
Why it exists: Mud clogs conventional clipless mechanisms in cyclocross and wet mountain biking. The open eggbeater geometry has nowhere for mud to pack, and four-sided entry means no fumbling to flip the pedal.
Typically found on: Mountain, cyclocross, and gravel bikes; popular with racers in muddy conditions
Time ATAC
1996–present (ATAC); Time road pedals since 1987Also called: ATAC, Time (SRAM)
2-bolt cleat (SPD-pattern shoe holes); ~5° angular float plus lateral float; 13° or 17° release angle by swapping cleats left-to-right
Time's off-road system (Auto Tension Adjustment Concept) uses two horizontal spring bars that grip a brass cleat, giving generous built-in rotational and side-to-side float that many riders' knees love. Swapping the left and right cleats changes the release angle (13° vs 17°). Time also makes 3-bolt road pedals (Xpresso, formerly RXS/Impact) with their own cleats. The Time brand was acquired by SRAM in 2021.
Why it exists: Time built its reputation on 'bio-position' float — free lateral and angular movement without spring resistance — as a knee-friendly alternative to fixed cleats, plus excellent mud performance from the open two-bar design.
Typically found on: Mountain, cyclocross, and gravel bikes; Time road pedals on road bikes
Wahoo Speedplay
1991–present (Wahoo era from 2021)Also called: Speedplay, Speedplay Zero, lollipop pedals
4-bolt cleat pattern (adapter plate fits standard 3-bolt shoes); float adjustable 0–15° via cleat grub screws; dual-sided entry; very low ~11.5 mm stack with 4-hole shoes
Speedplay inverts the usual design: the retention spring lives in the cleat, and the small round 'lollipop' pedal is essentially a bare engagement dumbbell — so you can clip in on either side. Float is micro-adjustable from 0° to 15° with two screws in each cleat, independently for inward and outward heel movement. Release tension is not adjustable; Wahoo sells standard-tension and easy-tension cleats instead. Wahoo acquired Speedplay in 2019 and relaunched the line in 2021.
Why it exists: Founded 1991 to solve problems single-sided road pedals couldn't: dual-sided entry, ultra-low stack height, huge adjustable float for injury-prone knees, and multiple spindle lengths for fit flexibility.
Typically found on: Road and time-trial/triathlon bikes; riders needing fine-tuned float or stance width
Shimano PD-EH500 / hybrid dual-platform pedals
1990s–presentAlso called: Dual-sided pedals, Touring pedals, SPD one side, flat the other
One flat platform side + one 2-bolt SPD-mechanism side; 9/16" thread
A pedal category rather than a single standard: one face is a flat platform for street shoes, the other carries an SPD (or compatible) clip-in mechanism. Popular for commuting and e-bikes where riders sometimes clip in and sometimes ride in sneakers.
Why it exists: Commuters and casual riders wanted clipless efficiency on long rides without being locked into cycling shoes for every trip to the store.
Typically found on: Commuter, touring, and e-bikes
Legacy standards
BikeQuiver focuses on modern bikes, but these earlier standards are worth knowing when you’re identifying parts on an older bike — or figuring out whether a used part will fit a new one.
Show 2 legacy standards
French pedal thread (M14 x 1.25)
~1900s–early 1980sAlso called: 14 mm French thread
14 mm diameter, 1.25 mm thread pitch; left pedal reverse-threaded
A metric pedal thread used on vintage French bicycles (Peugeot, Motobecane, Gitane and others). It is very close in size to 9/16" x 20 tpi — close enough that pedals can be forced in, permanently damaging the crank threads. If you have a French bike from the 1970s or earlier, check before installing modern pedals.
Why it exists: France maintained its own metric component threading (pedals, bottom brackets, headsets) before the industry converged on ISO standards in the late 1970s and 1980s.
Typically found on: Vintage French road and touring bikes; French cranks (TA, Stronglight) of that era
Look Delta
1984–~2004 outdoors; still current on indoor/spin bikesAlso called: Delta, Look classic
3-bolt cleat, larger triangular cleat than Keo; float versions: black = 0°, grey = ~4.5°, red = 9°
Look's original clipless design, descended from the 1984 PP65 — the pedal that started the clipless era after Bernard Hinault rode it to a Tour de France win in 1985. The big triangular cleat uses the same 3-bolt shoe pattern as Keo but is NOT interchangeable with Keo pedals. Delta remains widely relevant today because Peloton and many other indoor bikes ship with Delta-compatible pedals.
Why it exists: Look applied its quick-release ski-binding expertise to pedals, eliminating toe straps and creating the template — spring-loaded rear jaw, twist-out release, shoe-mounted cleat — every later system followed.
Typically found on: Vintage road bikes; Peloton and many spin/studio bikes today
What to record about yours
These are the values worth writing down when you add this part to your quiver — the critical ones drive compatibility matching.
| Spec | Matters for fit | Common values |
|---|---|---|
Spindle thread size critical | The thread must match the hole in your crank arm. Almost all modern adult bikes use 9/16" x 20 tpi; one-piece cranks on BMX, cruiser, and kids' bikes use 1/2" x 20 tpi. | 9/16" x 20 tpi · 1/2" x 20 tpi · M14 x 1.25 (French, vintage) |
Pedal type critical | Determines what footwear works: platform (flat) pedals take any shoe, clipless pedals require cycling shoes with matching cleats, and hybrid pedals offer a flat side plus a clip-in side. | Platform (flat) · Clipless · Hybrid (flat + clipless) · Platform with toe clips |
Cleat system critical | Clipless pedals only work with their own brand's cleats — a Look Keo cleat will not clip into a Shimano SPD-SL pedal even though both use 3-bolt shoes. This is the single most important spec for clipless pedals. | Shimano SPD · Shimano SPD-SL · Look Keo · Crank Brothers · Time ATAC · Wahoo Speedplay · Look Delta |
Cleat bolt pattern helpful | Your shoe's sole must have the matching bolt holes: 2-bolt (recessed, walkable, mountain/commuter shoes), 3-bolt (road shoes), or 4-bolt (Speedplay-specific, though adapters fit 3-bolt shoes). | 2-bolt · 3-bolt · 4-bolt |
Cleat float helpful | Float is how many degrees your heel can pivot while clipped in before the cleat releases. Some float (4–6°) protects knees; 0° cleats lock the foot for maximum efficiency. Float is set by which cleat you buy, not the pedal. | 6° (Shimano yellow, Crank Brothers standard) · 0° (fixed) · 2° (Shimano blue) · 4.5° (Look grey) · 9° (Look red) · 0–15° adjustable (Speedplay) |
Wrench interface helpful | Tells you which tool installs or removes the pedal: 15 mm wrench flats on the spindle, an 8 mm (sometimes 6 mm) hex socket in the back of the spindle, or both. Some modern pedals have no wrench flats at all. | 15 mm wrench flats · 8 mm hex · 6 mm hex · Flats + 8 mm hex |
Spindle (axle) length(mm) optional | Longer-axle versions push the pedal a few millimetres outboard for riders who need a wider stance or whose heels brush the crank. Shimano sells +4 mm axle versions of several road pedals. | Standard (~52–55 mm) · +4 mm (Shimano long axle) · Long spindle (Speedplay: multiple lengths) |
Stack height(mm) optional | The distance from the middle of the pedal spindle to the sole of your shoe. Lower stack puts your foot closer to the axle for a more stable feel; changing pedals with different stack heights may require a small saddle-height adjustment. | 14–18 (road clipless) · 16–22 (mountain clipless) · 11–18 (flat pedals, platform thickness) |
Release tension adjustment optional | Most clipless pedals have a small screw that adjusts how much force it takes to twist out. Beginners run it loose; racers run it tight. Speedplay is the exception — tension is fixed by cleat choice (standard vs easy tension). | Adjustable (screw) · Fixed (choose cleat: standard or easy tension) · Fixed (carbon blade spring, swappable blades) |
How to identify which one you have
By bike and crank type
If your bike is an adult bike with crank arms bolted to a separate axle, the pedals are almost certainly 9/16" x 20 tpi. If it's a BMX, kids' bike, or an older cruiser whose crank is one continuous S-shaped steel piece through the frame, it's 1/2" x 20 tpi. Vintage French bikes (Peugeot, Motobecane) may be 14 mm French thread — don't force pedals into these.
By measuring
Measure the spindle thread diameter with calipers just behind the threads: about 14.2–14.3 mm means 9/16", about 12.7 mm means 1/2", and 13.9–14.0 mm on a vintage French bike suggests French thread. For cleats, measure the bolt spacing on your shoe sole: two slots side by side = 2-bolt; a triangle of three holes = 3-bolt road; four holes in a rectangle = Speedplay 4-bolt. Stack height and spindle length are listed in the pedal's spec sheet rather than measured.
By markings
Pedal spindles are stamped L and R near the wrench flats — and often with the thread size (e.g. '9/16'). Shimano cleats carry model numbers: SM-SH51/SH56 are SPD (2-bolt); SM-SH10 (red), SH11 (yellow), SH12 (blue) are SPD-SL (3-bolt). Look Keo cleats say 'Keo' and use black/grey/red for 0°/4.5°/9° float. Crank Brothers brass cleats and Time ATAC cleats are 2-bolt but shaped nothing like SPD cleats. Speedplay cleats are large round discs covering much of the forefoot.
By the pedal's shape
Flat platform with pins or rubber blocks = platform pedal. Small double-sided metal mechanism = SPD or similar 2-bolt system. Wide single-sided body with a plastic or carbon rear catch = road 3-bolt system (SPD-SL or Keo). Four bare spring wings like a whisk = Crank Brothers Eggbeater. Small round lollipop on a stick = Speedplay. One flat face and one mechanism face = hybrid commuter pedal.
Compatibility gotchas
- Left pedals are reverse-threaded: they loosen clockwise and tighten counterclockwise. If a pedal won't budge, check you're turning the right way before applying more force — and always grease pedal threads on installation.
- Typical pedal installation torque is around 35 Nm (≈360 in-lb) — firmly tight with a normal wrench. Many cranks, especially carbon or with pedal-based power meters, call for a thin pedal washer between the pedal shoulder and crank face; check the crank and pedal instructions.
- 1/2" and 9/16" threads are not interchangeable. Adapters exist to run 9/16" pedals in a 1/2" one-piece crank, but not the reverse.
- Cleats are brand-locked even when the shoe bolt pattern matches: Look Keo, Shimano SPD-SL, and Time road cleats all use 3-bolt shoes but none of their cleats work in another brand's pedals. Look Delta and Look Keo are also mutually incompatible despite both being Look 3-bolt systems.
- Any 2-bolt shoe accepts SPD, Crank Brothers, or Time ATAC cleats — buy the cleat that matches your pedals, not your shoes. Most 2-bolt cleats ship with the pedals.
- Speedplay pedals need 4-bolt shoes or the included adapter base plate on standard 3-bolt road shoes. They cannot be used with 2-bolt mountain shoes.
- Shimano SPD cleat choice changes behavior, not fit: SH51 (single-release) releases only by twisting the heel out; SH56 (multi-release) releases at several angles and is friendlier for beginners but easier to unclip accidentally.
- Float is set by the cleat, not the pedal: e.g. Shimano SPD-SL yellow = 6°, blue = 2°, red = 0°; Look Keo red = 9°, grey = 4.5°, black = 0°. Replacing worn cleats with a different color changes how the pedals feel.
- Cleat bolts take 4 mm hex and roughly 5–6 Nm torque; grease or anti-seize on the threads prevents them seizing into the shoe plates.
- Peloton and many studio bikes use Look Delta pedals — buy Delta cleats (not Keo) for spin shoes, or swap the pedals for SPD if you already own 2-bolt shoes.
- Riders needing a wider stance can use long-spindle options (Shimano +4 mm axles, Speedplay's multiple spindle lengths) or pedal spindle extenders rather than changing cranks.
References
- Pedal Installation and Removal — Park Tool
- Bicycle Pedals — Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery
- Shimano SPD vs SPD-SL pedals: What's the difference? — BikeRadar
- How to Install Shimano SPD-SL (3-Hole) Cleats — Shimano
- Look vs Shimano pedals: which clipless pedal system is best for road cycling? — road.cc
- Cleats: Customize Your Float & Release Angle — Crankbrothers
- Installing Wahoo Speedplay Pedals & Cleats — Sigma Sports